Bucket List Adventure: Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (R3)

Have you been to the Grand Canyon? Well the name suits it. It’s big!!

Here is a great story about what some call "the great upside down mountain." You can walk down to the bottom pretty easily, but getting back up can be a different story. We are lucky to have Brian Roach, FNP-C here to tell us about his R3 adventure.

Please remember, as the United States park system is being dismantled at the time of this post, to check online on the conditions of the park you may be visiting. Take that extra step to be self sufficient, getting as much information as you can, and be prepared for changing plans. 

Bucket List Adventure: Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (R3)

By Brian Roach, FNP-C

In July, I floated the idea of a one-day hike across the Grand Canyon and back—commonly called Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (R3 or R2R2R)—to my old running buddy, Doug Cluff. Doug, a Rhode Island-based scenic artist and ultra-runner, was immediately intrigued. With his wife’s conditional approval (as long as I handled the safety planning), the adventure was on. What followed was months of preparation for a physically and mentally challenging journey that had always been on my radar.

Below, I’ve shared my experience, tips, and lessons learned from this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Why R3?

For outdoor enthusiasts, crossing the Grand Canyon from rim to rim and back is a dream—a test of endurance, preparation, and grit. Whether it’s tackled as a one-day challenge, a two- to three-day backpacking trip, or an ultra-run, the adventure promises stunning scenery and a profound sense of accomplishment.

Although I don’t keep a formal bucket list, R3 was always something I dreamed of. Whenever I stood on the South Rim, looking across to the North Rim, the idea of traversing the canyon and returning within a single day called to me. The allure of completing such a monumental challenge was hard to resist.

Depending on the route, R3 covers 42–46 miles and involves 10,000 feet of elevation gain, all on well-maintained corridor trails used daily by hikers, rangers, and mule trains. While the journey is generally safe, environmental challenges such as heat, fatigue, and dehydration can quickly escalate. The greatest risk occurs during the summer when temperatures deep in the canyon soar above 110°F.

Preparation

I spent the summer of 2018 as a Preventive Search and Rescue (PSAR) volunteer in the Grand Canyon, logging over 70 day hikes below the rim. Even with that experience, I knew R3 would require meticulous planning. I started by researching everything I could about the trek, signing up for Facebook groups and poring over personal blogs and trip reports.

Here’s what I learned:

• Start with official resources: The National Park Service (NPS) website is the most reliable source for trail conditions, water availability, weather, and safety protocols.

• Be wary of social media: While Facebook groups provided some helpful insights, I found them full of myths, misinformation, and biased accounts. Stories about rattlesnakes, mule trains, and creek crossings often reflected unnecessary anxiety rather than reality.

• Focus on facts: Instead of overanalyzing others’ experiences, I relied on my knowledge of the canyon and objective information to develop a plan that matched my fitness and expertise.

Training

Preparing for R3 is a personal endeavor—it’s not one-size-fits-all. Training plans should align with your fitness level, schedule, and the specific demands of the trek.

For me, the main focus was building strength for the two steep 7-mile climbs (South Kaibab on the South Rim and North Kaibab Trail on the North Rim). I didn’t have much time to train, so I prioritized high-volume lunges, stair climbing, and steep treadmill sessions with a weighted vest. I didn’t worry about logging long miles, trusting that adrenaline and a well-planned nutrition strategy would carry me through.

Gear and Nutrition

Trial and error during training revealed what worked and what didn’t. I tested my clothing and gear to ensure there were no surprises on the trail. Foot care became a top priority—I checked my feet daily after training to monitor for hotspots, blisters, or chafing.

Hydration and nutrition were equally critical. R3 is a prime opportunity to “nerd out” on calories per gram and optimize your trail food. My strategy was to carry lightweight, easy-to-eat, high-energy foods such as pierogies, sweet potato ravioli, and Honey Stinger waffles. For hydration, I relied on Tailwind for electrolytes and calories. Knowing where to refill water along the trail allowed me to carry only what I needed between sources.

Safety

Safety is non-negotiable on a trek like R3. Doug and I agreed on a clear safety plan before setting foot on the trail. We discussed scenarios that would lead us to abandon our goal or seek help, knowing our limits and being prepared to adjust as needed.

Hiking your own hike is essential, but it doesn’t mean ignoring preparation, taking unnecessary risks, or violating trail rules. Efficiency and self-awareness are key—calibrate your pace and effort to your fitness level, and carry the right gear, food, and water.

The Journey

On November 14, 2023, Doug and I began our R3 adventure. Starting before dawn, temperatures at the South Rim were below 30°F. As we descended, the conditions became ideal—crisp air, stunning vistas, and plenty of daylight.

The trek unfolded smoothly until the final ascent back to the South Rim. Doug began experiencing severe intestinal distress, including nausea and vomiting, which made it difficult for him to maintain a steady pace. His heart rate and breathing became erratic, and frequent breaks didn’t help. The Zofran and Pepto-Bismol I carried weren’t effective, and Doug’s symptoms persisted.

Brian's med kit, the pill section. Note each is packaged by medication with printed common name for clarity and dosage and uses printed out.

As our pace slowed to one mile per hour, it became clear we couldn’t spend the night on the trail with the limited clothing we had. Fortunately, I knew about the emergency sleeping bags cached along the trail by the NPS. With minimal cell coverage, I contacted the on-duty ranger and secured access to a sleeping bag.

Doug rested for 90 minutes inside the bag, and when he woke, his condition had improved enough to continue. We completed the final stretch without stopping, reaching the South Rim at 2 a.m.—22 hours after we began.

Reflections

Despite the challenges, R3 was everything I had hoped for. The sense of accomplishment upon finishing was unparalleled, and the experience reinforced the importance of preparation, adaptability, and teamwork. Standing on the South Rim the next morning, looking back across the vast canyon we had conquered, made all the effort worthwhile.

Would I do it again? Absolutely. But for now, I’m content to let this incredible journey stand as one of my proudest adventures.

Frequently asked questions

1. Did you have a satellite device with you?

No. I have a philosophical problem with satellite devices in front country type scenarios. It is a crutch for the poorly prepared. 

(At Musa Masala, we believe a satellite communication device is part of preparedness. Brian and Doug decided cell phones were adequate and Brian was familiar with the area. You may not need it for yourself, but you may be able to help someone else. Each person must make these decisions before they go into a wilderness situation.)

2. What did you do for water?

There were Park Service spigots at roughly 7, 14, 28 and 35 miles. I hiked dry for the first 7 and carried 1.2 liters to 14, 2.4ish liters for the middle 14, then 1.2 liters to the 35 mile spigot and 1.2 liters for the final 7.  Six liters in total. I finished dry intentionally. I am not a fan of carrying water on my back. I'd rather carry it in my stomach.  

3. Do you know how many calories you ate and water you drank?

About 4200: about 3000 calories of carbs and 1200 calories from Tailwind dextrose/sucrose

Eating a lot of food is hard. I chose soft food on purpose. My plan worked great. I was tired but I had no GI problems. Doug’s problem is that he doesn’t eat enough. He has a long history of Gi problems for decades in endurance events.  

4. How much did your pack weigh?

.25-1.5 kilos of water and water bottles

.25-1.5 kilos of food 

1 kilo of clothing

1 kilo of everything else. 

Minimum weight 6 lbs. Maximum about 10 lbs. 

5. Do you have a few official resources you used for us to include?

This is by far (!!!) the most important website: Key Hiking Messages - Grand Canyon

6. When is the best time to do such an adventure? 

May and October are best. June, July, August and September have high risk heat, but great daylight, more emergency services (people in general), more water sources, mild night temperatures

April and November have mild daytime temperatures, but less daylight and cold nights. 

Brian Roach is a former 20-year investment banker turned Emergency RN and now Emergency NP. He is a FAWM candidate and an all-around outdoor adventurer.